Many don’t realize that Mount Hood has a volcanic crater at its core and that it’s still an active volcano. In this trip report, I’ll take you straight into the dragon’s gullet, steaming vents and all.
After a few ski runs down from Crater Rock—the massive formation in the middle of Hood’s crater—I felt confident in my assessment of the conditions. Oh, by the way, the technical term for a mound in the center of a volcano is ‘cryptodome.’ How cool and ominous is that? It sounds like something out of a sci-fi movie—or maybe the perfect name for a cutting-edge computer holding all your secrets. Oh, wait, where were we? Anywho, with conditions looking good, I decided to take my youngest on a perilous trip to its summit.
Picture this: It’s the mid-1850s, and Portland is a bustling, scrappy logging town just starting to find its place on the map. News travels by paper and word of mouth—no Twitter feeds or TikTok trends here, just good old-fashioned storytelling. The country is on the brink of civil war, the Emancipation Proclamation will soon send shockwaves across the nation, and yet, amidst all this upheaval, two adventurous men find their freedom not in political arenas or battlefields, but on the iconic peak towering above their hard-earned new home.
In 1854, Dryer claims he summited Mount Hood, and in 1857, Pittock makes a similar claim. Now, Pittock, fresh from east coast and likely eager to stake his claim in this burgeoning town’s history, describes sulfur vents 350 feet from the summit, which Dryer, insisted were at the summit. Future assents proved in favor of Pittock’s assertion awarding his party the official first Mount Hood summit title on August 6th 1857.
Here’s where things get fun: Did he mean 350 feet? Yards? Who’s to say? What we do know is that these sulfur vents are around Crater Rock, nearly 1,000 feet from the summit. Why not just say they are around Crater Rock and skip the guesswork? Maybe because, back then, every story carried a bit of legend—and legends are measured not in feet, but in pride and passion.
I like to imagine these two men, driven by a mix of hometown pride and sheer adventurous spirit, standing on that mountain and feeling the same awe and freedom we feel today. Mount Hood wasn’t just a mountain to them—it was a symbol of their new life, their growing town, and the freedom they’d found in the rugged beauty of the Pacific Northwest. And in a time when the nation was divided, maybe the mountain reminded them of what unites us: the human drive to explore, to overcome, and to stand tall in the face of a challenge.
Important Note:
Climbing through the Pearly Gates or the Old Chute late in the day or during warmer temperatures can be dangerous. Warming temperatures and direct sunlight loosen ice and rock from the surrounding cliffs, sending debris hurtling down with enough force to tear through a helmet. Always time your ascent carefully and stay aware of the conditions.
Climbing Tip: Having used both ice tools and ice axes through the Pearly Gates section, I can say that ice tools make a big difference. Their contoured design is ideal for the steep, bear-crawl-like ascent, and they’re specifically crafted to penetrate ice efficiently. This makes them far more effective and comfortable than a standard ice axe, resulting in a more effortless and controlled climb. Additionally, having a climbing aid in each hand is invaluable—it’s not uncommon to see climbers using tools like Whippets for added security.
